Gayaji: The sacred town of Gayaji, where thousands gather every year for the Pitru Paksha Mela to perform rituals for their ancestors, has become an unexpected refuge for many Nepali devotees. This year, amid escalating violence in Nepal, nearly 30,000 pilgrims who had crossed the border to attend the fair are reluctant to return home.
For these visitors, the rituals of pind daan have been overshadowed by fear. The political unrest and violent protests in Nepal—sparked by corruption allegations and a sudden ban on social media—have left devotees stranded in India, uncertain about the safety of their journey back.
“Going Back Is Not Safe”
“Violence continues in Nepal. You don’t know when someone’s car will be set on fire. Rioters are vandalizing on the way,” said Shankaranand, a pilgrim from Saptari district, who came to Gayaji with his family.
Like him, many devotees are staying in Nepali dharamshalas, hotels, and lodges. While three traditional Nepali dharamshalas in Gayaji usually overflow with devotees during the 15-day fair, this year they are far from full. Tour operators have already cancelled bus services from Nepal’s hill regions, leaving many pilgrims stranded.
“Every year, more than one lakh Nepali devotees come here. This time, the dharamshalas are empty. Even hotels have no crowd. The fear of violence is keeping people away,” explained Raju Tiwari, caretaker of a Nepali dharamshala in Chandchora.
Why Are Nepali Devotees Stuck in Gayaji?
According to dharamshala operators, nearly 30,000 pilgrims from Nepal arrived in the first three days of the fair. Many are refusing to return, fearing the chaos back home. Devotees from Nepal’s plains managed to reach early, but hundreds of buses expected from Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara, and Banepa after September 10 have been cancelled.
“We wanted to return after pind daan, but vehicles are not available. Even if we want to go, we cannot,” said Jayprakash from Parsa district. “We will wait here until the situation calms down.”
The Spark That Lit the Fire
The unrest, according to pilgrims, is not a sudden eruption but the result of years of frustration. Prime Minister KP Sharma Oli’s recent return from China and his announcement of a nationwide ban on social media triggered mass protests.
“The ban silenced people’s voices. Youth were already angry over corruption and lack of jobs. When even their means of expression was snatched away, an explosion was bound to happen,” said Shankaranand Mishra, an assistant administrator from Saptari.
Demonstrations quickly spread from Kathmandu to Birgunj, Parsa, and other districts. Protesters set fire to Parliament, the President’s residence, and government offices. Official figures claim 14 deaths, but pilgrims here allege the toll is far higher. “The truth is that more than 1,400 people have been killed,” Shankaranand claimed.
Voices from the Diaspora
Sitting outside a dharamshala in Gayaji, a group of Nepali men followed news on their mobiles. “We are learning more from Indian media than from our own. But we still follow local Nepali channels on YouTube,” said Baijnath Paswan.
According to him, corruption by successive governments has fuelled public anger. “The Oli government was no different from earlier regimes. Leaders looted the country. When the youth saw no education, no jobs, and no rights, they took to the streets.”
Many echoed similar sentiments. “This is not democracy, it is monarchy in the name of democracy,” said an elderly pilgrim, Mohandas. “The people are helpless. Only someone like Sushila Karki can bring order.”
A Movement Without Leaders
What worries many Nepali pilgrims is the unpredictability of the movement. “Most protesters are young boys aged between 17 and 27. They have no clear leader. But their anger is real,” said Jayprakash.
Another devotee, Devendra Kumar Singh, noted, “Lakhs of youth are on the streets. It started with hundreds, then thousands, and now the entire nation is involved. Until corruption and arbitrary governance end, the protests will continue.”
Uncertainty Shadows Faith
For now, Gayaji has become a shelter for those who crossed the border before violence peaked. While they complete their rituals, their minds remain back home, worried for families and uncertain about when it will be safe to return.
As Shankaranand put it, “We came here to honor our ancestors, but our hearts are heavy. We don’t know when peace will return to Nepal. Until then, we will stay here, praying for our country.”
